Scaling the church bell tower's creaky wooden stairway requires an enduring faith in the reliability of wood. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. This is a modern work of the 20th century made by the greatest Croatian sculpturist ever, Ivan Meštrović. At the Valentino Bar the Old Town tumbles right into the sea. Our Croatian finale: the Istrian Peninsula and its enchanting port town of Rovinj. When Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, its Serb minority — about 10 percent of the population — was concerned about its rights. Orah. Activities are low energy. They are a time warp. Dobro. And Istria remained part of Italy until after World War II. We're setting sail along the scenic Dalmatian Coast with its countless islands. A few steps away is a temple dedicated to Jupiter. Hvala! All Videos My Playlists Public Playlists At the height of the tourist season, Split, Croatia, is jammed with daytime cruise ship visitors. The ruins themselves are now integrated with the city's street plan, so exploring them is free — except for the cellars and the cathedral sights/temple, which you'll pay to enter. Salesman: White truffle, yes, yes. The people-friendly business zone comes with the energy and bustle you'd expect to find in any prosperous European capital. When Rome fell, Diocletian's palace was abandoned. I bought this book after using Rick Steves' Italy guide which was pretty good and helped us discover at least one gem that wasn't covered anywhere else. Later on during the history of the Middle Ages this was converted into the church, so this was the medieval baptistery. Split feels modern. Saleswoman: Dobar dan… [good?] It's understandably Croatia's top draw. It is amazing to see an Italian coastal village that has hardly changed at its core since the Venetian era. I called ahead and my hosts, Lenni and Peter, met me at the boat. For a latte, it's bijela kava. Rather than stay in a big resort hotel, I'm staying in a soba — that's a room rented in a private home. But today, strolling the ramparts, it's clear: The panorama is a big part of the town's appeal. see our FAQ. Since they live off-site, confirm your reservation the day before and let them know your arrival time (perisa.modrinic@du.t-com.hr). Nearby a grand underground hallway now used as a shopping arcade leads to Diocletian's vestibule. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 20,000 travelers to Europe annually. That explains today's pleasantly claustrophobic Old Town. The original octagonal structure was Diocletian's elaborate mausoleum, built in the fourth century. You can email Rick at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.) In a complex age, many urbanites found this art refreshing for its brute simplicity. The national parliament building flies both the Croatian and European flags. Smoke-stained plaques on the wall give thanks — hvala — for prayers answered. Maya: Yes, they had the technology and they had the slaves. Tucked inside Zagreb's only surviving town gate is an evocative chapel. When Yugoslavia broke up into separate countries in the 1990s, Croatia wound up with most of its coastline. Our waiter reminded us that a fish should swim three times: first in the sea, then in olive oil, and finally in wine. As long as you will be returning the car in Italy, there shouldn't be a problem with taking the car to Slovenia and Croatia. We are totally open to seeing Venice, the Dolomites, Slovenia and Croatia. After Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, the Yugoslav National Army laid siege to this town and lobbed mortars from the hilltop above. Fish seem to know there's not a hook for miles. Today's residents are literally living in a Roman emperor's palace. Observant nature lovers can choose from hundreds of flower types to assemble a photographic bouquet. Rick Steves' Mediterranean Cruise Ports explains how to get into town from the cruise terminal, shares sightseeing tips, and includes self-guided walks and tours. As disturbing as these reminders of war are, it is uplifting to be here, and to actually see how well the country's putting itself back together. The warm stone walls glow, and each stairway is an invitation to take out a sketch pad or camera. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. You'll learn which destinations are best for an excursion—and which you can confidently visit on your own. Facades recall its 14th-century trading heyday. So on the ceiling you can see really nice Roman carvings. Generalić, shown here in a self-portrait, was the father of the Croatian Naive Art movement. In places such as rural Croatia, medieval lifestyles survived well into the 20th century. The town's charms are all within a few steps. Seeing bomb-damaged homes rebuilt makes you ponder loss, resilience, and hope. [excellent!] The statue depicts the square's namesake, Josip Jelačić — the 19th-century national hero who still inspires Croatians today. Countless cascades and water that's strangely clear, yet full of vibrant colors, make Plitvice a misty natural wonderland. These songs of seafaring life, of loves lost and loves found, stir the souls of Croatians and visitors alike. If you like Italy but don't need blockbuster sights, Verona is a joy. The town's history created its current shape: Medieval Rovinj was a walled island. So they broke away from the new state of Croatia, which plunged the region into four years of war. That's why this region is enthusiastically bilingual — an engaging mix of Croatia and Italy. Until next time, keep on travelin'. Video: Watch Croatia: Adriatic Delights, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. You can email Rick at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook..) (c)2020 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC. Share And where should we go? Istria is the obvious, due to its location furthest from Venice. He was a huge hit, sold everything, and came home rich and famous. In towns like Otočac bullet holes still mar facades. memories of places we've been together. Its main square is home to Croatia's government. Maya: That would be it. By Rick Steves. Two nights in Venice, three nights in the Belluno area to enjoy some Dolomite scenery, three nights in Bled area and then on to Istria for four nights and back to Venice for one. Answer 1 of 28: Hi Most forums are very critical of Rick Steves guide books and just suprised it's been recommended on the Croatia forums a few times. Dubrovnik The "Pearl of the Adriatic": a giant walled Old Town with a scenic wall walk, tons of crowds, great beaches, modest but engaging museums, a stunning mountaintop viewpoint, an epic past and difficult but inspiring recent history, and a well-earned reputation as Croatia's single best destination. That's white coffee. Croatia is a fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe. If your kids love horses, make sure to visit the Lipica Stud Farm, one of the original homes of the Lipizzaner, better known as the horses from the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. And so, ironically, what Diocletian built to glorify his memory is used instead to remember his victims: Christian martyrs...like this one, who was tied to a mill stone and tossed into the sea. We have a bishop standing just next to him, and underneath his feet we have a citizen. If you want to enjoy the Croatian café scene, it helps to know a few words. Every town has their all-male klapa choir. When it comes to mealtime, here on the coast, it's gotta be seafood. This remarkable spot, founded in 1952 as the "Peasant Art Gallery," is one of the most enjoyable little museums in Croatia. Thanks for your insights. But centuries later, in the Middle Ages, his mausoleum was converted into a cathedral. Is there a nice place in Istria to use as a home base and then day trip to beaches or hill towns? What do you think about this? And Diocletian called himself "Jovius," son of the god Jupiter. Dominating the square is the Church of St. Mark — with the colorfully tiled roof depicting both the coat of arms of Croatia and the city seal of Zagreb. Croatia is clearly coming into its own. While some are on canvas, most are painted on glass — a cheap and readily available material that was easier to work on. Add a video to start a new playlist! Dramatically situated high above the vineyards, Motovun is Istria's most popular hill town. I am hoping that is not too much moving around--otherwise we remove one of those destinations. This room may be small, but it's comfortable, air-conditioned, and half the price of a hotel. Input and suggestions are welcome, favorite places to see, restaurants or hotels/ apartments or rooms to rent in the mentioned places. It’s a midsize town that’s not included in our Rick Steves’ Italy guidebook — even with 1,250 pages of coverage, Arezzo doesn’t make the cut. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe.His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. Understandably, artists love Rovinj. We are now finalizing our trip to Slovenia and Croatia, renting a car and beginning in Ljubljana on May 5th and then leave from there again on May 23 or 24th. Since you'll be travelling in August, the more popular places will definitely be crowded, especially Venice, which will be absolutely swamped with tourists. Free shipping. These scars reflect the brutal house-to-house fighting that characterized the war. Rick: Nice; thank you. Of the four places you wish to visit, I suggest picking just three - two weeks is not as much time as it sounds. We start south in Dubrovnik, sail along the Dalmatian Coast, stopping at Korčula and Hvar en route to Split. Make note of the various requirements for driving in each country, such as the toll stickers (vignettes) in Slovenia and Austria, etc. Fragments of the palace are poorly marked, and there are no good guidebooks or audioguides for understanding the remains. 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