if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[300,250],'35mmc_com-medrectangle-4','ezslot_1',181,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-medrectangle-4-0');if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[300,250],'35mmc_com-medrectangle-4','ezslot_2',181,'0','1'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-medrectangle-4-0_1');.medrectangle-4-multi-181{border:none!important;display:block!important;float:none!important;line-height:0;margin-bottom:7px!important;margin-left:auto!important;margin-right:auto!important;margin-top:7px!important;max-width:100%!important;min-height:250px;padding:0;text-align:center!important}. Bright conditions like shooting outdoors on a sunny day benefit from lower values. Or for when subject is moving at speed (will cut down on blur). Unless you are overdeveloping. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Answer (1 of 8): If it's a disposable camera, then it came loaded with that film by design. And of course, CineStill renders the colours and contrast in its own way (which I found to be precise, realistic, and appealing): Typically, CineStill 800T shot in daylight without a filter would scan and print with its colours shifted towards light blue or teal. There's nothing inherently incorrect about using 1600-ish speed film outdoors. And also, like I said, I come across films that I like the look of, but then happen to be of a high ISO with no slower versions. And that's perfectly okay. I was using an EOS 300 and set the ISO to 800. The rest is done with your development lab. s Color Balance tool to alter the image so that its grey tones appear natural. Fast speed film will result in the grainiest photographs but is great to use when shooting fast-moving subjects in low light conditions. But generally it's said that 400 or lower is useless indoors, and you should go with 800 or up. And again, I suppose I could (guess and) adapt using the exposure-adjustment as conditions change, much like I did on digital cameras. I've used it only once, and I don't remember any effects besides more grain. Yes, you can. Want more tips on Cinestill and film photography? Shooting under this subdued light can be tricky. Basically the question is whether or not ISO 1600/3200 is overkill when using it in bright natural light. How have you found the lomography stuff? I often create a new layer with pure white and pure black swatches of colour to help me quickly reference how those tones ought to look in the end. Said by whom? Medium speed film should generally not be used with fast motion photography such as sporting events, indoors without much lighting, or in extremely bright lighting. The amount of detail you will have in the clouds and other very bright elements will make a huge difference. This remarkable emulsion is always in high demand, and its not just the hype: this film delivers for both perfectionists and experimental photographers. CineStill 800T in daylight, dev/scan by Rocket Repro lab, Vancouver. What caused excessively high grain in Delta ISO 400 film developed by a shop? So with most cameras there is a trade-off between noise and overexposure headroom. This is another way to let in less light, to work with daylight conditions a bit easier. So at 400 ISO, you have 14-stops of DR but 8-stops under and 6-stops over. Read Kodak Portra 800 A Review []. Took me back to shooting Fujicolor 800 on the F4 in the late 1990s. It's intended for a more all-round use between somewhat darker and lighter scenes, but I needed to know that at what point such high ISO would be t sensitive (in case the sun comes out when outdoors). Any concerns I might have had about grain went straight out of the window when looking at the first results. May 17, 2012. ISO in Photography: what it is and when to use your higher settings I also found the results out of the Noritsu to be quite impacted by the slight yellowish-orange cast this scanner is quite well known for. Not good or bad, but less, so if I want to print at 900mm on the short edge the grain is nice, whereas 400 is getting a bit chunky at that size. Here's the order of changes one more time: f/3.5, 1/80 sec, ISO 100 - Light meter said so. I cant remember if I commented or not, but I do remember thinking how much I was going to miss this film. The image above demonstrates the best-case scenario: I had a reference frame shot with an 85C warming filter right next to the working (no filter) scene. 35mm Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Pushed +1 to ISO 800. Thanks to Cinestill 800T's great exposure latitude, you can easily underexpose the film for photos that appear darker and sport more contrast. You can pick up some on Amazon here: Kodak Portra 800 in 35mm and Kodak Portra 800 in 120. With very little work in post in fact just enough to get rid of the scanners tendency to a yellowish-orange cast I got results that were bang on how I like my colour film images to look. You won't miss a low light shot again . This results in the . Or maybe it just has aggressive highlights or some such side-effects? What you see here are composite images made with both frames (with and without 85C filter) sliced and arranged next to each other for easy comparison. I used cake stands and deep shadows as my white and black colour references. So if you're dead set on shooting color film in dim, artificial light, check out 800T and learn to push it as necessary. Way back when we chatted about film choices for you, if Id known what I do now, and seen more of the sorts of shots of yours Ive seen since, I think I would have recommended this film. Kodak Tri-X 400. Finally, I just want to say thanks to Kodak Alaris for suppling about 50% the film I shot above. This time, I was shooting with a Leitz 50mm f/3.5 Elmar and my Leica Standard. [CDATA[ Photography Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional, enthusiast and amateur photographers. What ISO do I shoot Ilford Delta 3200 in? If they dont hurry up with E100 in 120, I might have to though . I bet youve had some cracking results! I use ISO 400 film for people photos, since I'm snapping people in all sorts of unpredictable light, and need enough speed to stop action and prevent blur from motion. When there's less available light: Daytime when it's not so sunny, dusk/dawn, indoors without a flash. Light meter battery ran low and I overexposed my ASA 400 HP5+. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. About 20 years ago, I've often used Kodak Ektachrome 1600 (a diapositive film) as ISO 3200. Prior to shooting Portra 800, my biggest concern or sense of limitation with regard to this film was its higher speed. Just go by your camera's built in meter. Like your camera, mine only could be set to ISO 1600, and I had to turn down exposure by one step. I choose the labs I use for their consistent results, I use my scanner in a specific way and apply fairly subtle process to my scans in Lightroom all to achieve results that I am happy with without too much fuss. What's the difference between a power rail and a signal line? However, sticking with a 1600 ISO film might turn out to be rather limiting on a sunny day. The combination of shutter speed, aperture and film speed/ISO (and light modifiers) are expressed as EV or "Exposure Value". The main advantage with high ISO film compared with digital sensors is that film is not sensitive to Infrared pollution as silicon based sensors. The same is true in reverse. As they are a light source they will be bright enough to use your film at box speed i.e ISO 800. Perhaps more faded blacks or some such thing? For daylight shooting I metered at ISO 400-500 and used a 85B filter for colour correction. Im not really sure what made me decide to load a roll of it and shoot it in daylight originally, but Im really glad I did. I also reflected on how I felt that Id already learned how to shoot it, scan it and process it; and that it hadnt taken that many rolls at all! One method photographers follow is pushing Cinestill 800T to 1600 ISO (aka underexposing it by 1 stop). To get the best skin tones and colors, you can do one of two things: Shoot it at 800 with an 85 B filter ( find on Amazon ). However, I still prefer the precise, granular control and the interface of the Color Balance tool. Ive read that 400 iso film is versatile and can be shot in the daylight, but I find that with my camera I often have to use too slow shutter speeds that cause blurry photos even with 400 iso. Photography light calculator. I mentioned in a recent review of my now treasured Konica Hexar RF that Id had a bit of an epiphany when I loaded a roll of Portra 800 into that camera and mounted my Voigtlander 50mm f/1.2 onto it. Clearly this story is heading in a very specific direction - I . Pushing film needn't result in blocked out shadows and super high contrast. Some notable 800 ISO features include fine grain that really only comes out in low light photos, the ability to shoot in lighting of all kinds, and being able to up the shutter speed to . I found your results enlightening and certainly stimulating in the direction of trying some Portra 800.Whether in landscapes or portraits, I simply would not have taken these for having been shot on 800-speed film. Thanks for contributing an answer to Photography Stack Exchange! I know the graininess will be worse with 800 iso but can i shoot it during the day or during the early evening without it ruining my photos? PTIJ Should we be afraid of Artificial Intelligence? If underexposed, it will have more of a muddy and grainy look. It's only one stop slower than ISO 800, and two stops faster than ISO 100. Cinestill says their film is faster because they remove the remjet layer of the film. But generally it's said that 400 or lower is useless indoors, and you should go with 800 or up. if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[300,250],'35mmc_com-banner-1','ezslot_7',185,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-banner-1-0');if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[300,250],'35mmc_com-banner-1','ezslot_8',185,'0','1'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-banner-1-0_1');.banner-1-multi-185{border:none!important;display:block!important;float:none!important;line-height:0;margin-bottom:7px!important;margin-left:auto!important;margin-right:auto!important;margin-top:7px!important;max-width:100%!important;min-height:250px;padding:0;text-align:center!important}, Importantly, at least as far as my workflow goes, I didnt find myself needing to correct colour-shifts much between frames, which to me was a good sign that Portra 800 could hold up to at least a bit of variance in exposure within my workflow without it causing me a headache in the scan and in post. Color Balance adjustment layer in Photoshop is a great tool for fixing white balance issues and removing colour casts. Stack Exchange network consists of 181 Q&A communities including Stack Overflow, the largest, most trusted online community for developers to learn, share their knowledge, and build their careers. Has Microsoft lowered its Windows 11 eligibility criteria? s 5800K. For CineStill 800T, the company gave us ISO 800 film that is Tungsten balanced-which means that it's best used with a flash or daylight. Typically, CineStill 800T shot in daylight without a filter would scan and print with its colours shifted towards light blue or teal. What ISO 35mm film should I buy? Earlier or later in the day, you may need to start shooting at ISO 400+. CAMERA; if youre shooting one of those cheapish P&S that only reads 100 & 400 then Portra 400 is king. Like I said; It's not intended as stubbornly shooting high-speed film in bright scenes. Not favorite ISO 800 color film, but favorite color film period. While the clouds certainly didnt make the sun hotter, the light that it gives off after being filtered through the atmosphere appears bluer. Using an 85C warming filter in front of your cameras lens is arguably the best way to shoot CineStill 800T in daylight. ISO 800 film is even faster, but not quite as clear as ISO . Its my favourite at least, Portra 400 is well known to be a film that allows for significant levels of overexposure and it still be quite correctable. More like well-lit to shadier areas. It is ideal for shooting in bright light at wide apertures and for producing high resolution, low grain images. Woah. Yes, you can use ISO 1600 in bright sunlight. is used to define and measure various light sources colours on the spectrum from red to blue. In fact, in some of these just because I could pull so much detail out of the shadows I probably slightly over-egged the pudding. //

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